The Dress Shirt Fit Guide
Where a shirt should touch, where it should float, and the four checkpoints that tell you if the fit is right.

Bill's Apparel is a quiet corner of the internet devoted to how clothes are actually made, how they should fit, and how to build a wardrobe that lasts. No trends. No hype. Just cloth, construction, and common sense.
Read the Journal
Thread count gets the marketing spotlight, but it tells you almost nothing useful. Fabric weight — measured in grams per square metre — is the number that actually predicts how a garment feels, drapes, and wears. Here's how to read it.
Read the GuideBefore you can judge a garment, you need to understand the material it's made from. Our fabric guide breaks down the fibres, weaves, and weights that define how menswear performs in the real world.
Practical, in-depth writing on fit, fabric, and building a wardrobe that earns its keep.
Where a shirt should touch, where it should float, and the four checkpoints that tell you if the fit is right.
Twelve pieces that quietly cover ninety percent of what life asks of you. Here's the list, and the logic behind it.
Skip the price tag. Weight, knit, collar, and seam construction tell you everything you need to know.
A realistic timeline for fading, washing, and what to actually expect from selvedge denim over six months.
Full-grain, top-grain, genuine — what these labels mean, and what sellers quietly leave out of the description.
Washing, drying, and storing sweaters so they keep their shape and survive more than a single season.
Transitional weather is where most wardrobes falter. These guides build a system that adapts.
A base, mid, and outer layer system that handles the morning chill to afternoon warmth swing without looking overthought.
Build a wardrobe where most things match most things. It's less about colour theory and more about disciplined range.
A thousand-dollar suit in the wrong fit looks worse than a thrifted jacket in the right one. Start here.
Collar, shoulder, chest, sleeve, and length — the five points where fit lives or dies.
A cost-per-wear framework for deciding whether a garment deserves a tailor's attention or the donation bin.
They look similar on a hanger. They are not the same garment. Here's the actual difference.
Whether you're starting from scratch or refining what you own, the journal walks through every decision — from fibre to fit to care — without selling you anything.
Explore the Journal